main courses | serves 4

1. In a large, deep cast-iron frying pan, add the fat until about one-third full. (As always when deep-frying, do not leave the fat unattended and be very careful.) Heat it until a haze rises, or a cube of bread browns in a minute or less. Shake the chicken pieces in seasoned flour in a brown paper bag – the best bags come from Whole Foods, but two greengrocers’ bags doubled-up will do. This is not optional – as plastic bags make the coating claggy. Shake off any excess flour.
2. Carefully fry the chicken in batches, so as not to crowd the pan. Do the dark meat first, skin-side down, turning. When the chicken is cooked through and perfectly juicy with an all-over golden, crunchy crust, it’s done. Drain on kitchen paper and serve quickly – though some prefer it cool, at room temperature.