Baked sea bass in a bag

method

If you want a fish recipe that’s always exciting and always an event, this is it. The steam from
all the lovely things cooking inside the foil bag will puff the bag up, and when you cut it open
before serving, your kitchen will be filled with the most amazing smells. I used a line-caught
sea bass for this and admittedly it was fairly large, but if you contact a good fishmonger in
advance they’ll be able to sort you out. Ask for MSC-approved fish and if they don’t have one
that size, you can always cook two smaller fish or another variety of fish the exact same way
– just adjust the time accordingly. Ultimately, you know it’s cooked when the meat behind
the head flakes apart easily. One thing I will say is that even though this is an elegant dish, it’s
difficult to be elegant when you’re fighting over the cheek meat (the best bit, by the way) and
mopping up the juices with hunks of bread or buttery potatoes.

Preheat the oven to full whack (about 475°F) and move the racks to the top of the oven so you
have lots of space at the bottom. Lay your fish on a board and score it on both sides at 3/4-inch
intervals. Stuff the herbs into the cavity of the fish, then finely slice the lemons and put a few
slices in with the herbs. Sprinkle both sides of the fish with a few pinches of salt and pepper
and drizzle over a little olive oil.

Tear off a piece of extra wide tin foil that’s double the length of your fish (be generous!).
Get your largest baking sheet and place the foil on top, leaving half hanging off one end of the
tray. Finely slice the scallions, fennel and anchovies, then arrange on the tray end of the foil
and lay your fish on top. Dot little knobs of butter around the fish. Lay the remaining lemon
slices on top. Quickly beat your egg and use a pastry brush to brush 3/4-inch of egg along the
edges of the foil. Fold the overhanging foil over the fish and seal the two long sides, folding
them up tightly so they’re about ľ inch away from the fish inside. Pour the wine into the
open end of the bag, making sure it doesn’t spill out, then fold and seal up that end. Put the
baking sheet right at the bottom of the oven and cook for 35 minutes for a 4-lb bass, around 25
minutes for a 3⅓-lb fish and so on. Don’t open the door during the cooking time.

When the time is up, take the sheet out of the oven and carefully cut open the top of the
puffed-up bag. Go straight to the thickest part of the fish, right behind the head; if the flesh
comes away from the bone easily, that’s brilliant. Simply pour in the cream and let it mix and
mingle with all the juices, then sprinkle the spinach into the juices and mix it around gently
to help it wilt down. Scatter over the reserved fennel tops. You can serve the fish on the
baking sheet, or snip it out of the bag and move it carefully to a serving platter. Serve it in nice
pieces, or pull it apart like you haven’t been fed for a month; just remember to pop a bowl
for the bones, skin and head nearby. Serve with simply boiled new potatoes, minted peas or
asparagus.

serves:

ingredients

SERVES 6

. 1 x 4-lb whole sea bass, scaled, gutted and gills removed
. a bunch of mixed fresh herbs, such as basil, rosemary and flat-leaf parsley
. 2 lemons
. sea salt and ground pepper
. olive oil
. a bunch of scallions, trimmed
. 1 bulb of fennel, herby tops reserved in cold water
. 4 anchovy fillets in oil
. a few little knobs of butter
. 1 large free-range egg
. 1 cup white wine
. Ľ cup heavy cream
. 1 x 7-ounce bag of washed baby spinach