Barbequed red mullet with a hot salsa

When cooking fish, you don’t have to stick to soft herbs like tarragon or dill –gutsy, woody herbs like oregano, thyme or rosemary are great with fish like red mullet.

In the UK, red mullet are hard to get hold off at the moment. Make sure your fish is from a sustainable source, and if you can’t find sustainable red mullet, go for small red snapper instead.

First get your barbeque going, with the coals piled up high on one side so it's super hot and low on the other side for a more gentle heat to give you some control.

With a sharp knife, score each of your fish all over on both sides, about 1cm deep. This helps the flavours to get into the fish and will allow the heat right in so the fish gets cooked evenly right down to the bone.

Get a big chopping board ready. Roughly chop the oregano leaves then scatter them over the board. Sprinkle over a generous amount of salt and pepper. Roll the fish over board, pushing them down and rubbing the flavourings into the slashes.

Place fish on to the hot side of the barbie to give them a bit of colour. You’ll be making your salsa on the cooler side (or on your hob). Just heat a little olive oil in a frying pan, add the chopped olives and warm them through for a minute or so. Add the garlic, chilli and rosemary sprigs, give it a good toss and gently fry while you finish cooking your fish.

After about 4 minutes turn the fish over by easing them off the grill with a fish slice – be patient otherwise they will stick – and cook for another 4 minutes until cooked and moist on the inside, with a crispy skin on the outside.

Remove and discard the sprigs of rosemary from the frying pan; they will have released lots of flavour so they've done their job. Add the chopped tomatoes to the pan and toss. Squeeze in the lemon juice and add the parsley leaves. Give the salsa a taste. Olives are usually quite salty so you probably don’t need any more salt but that's your call. I might add a little pepper though. Once everything is warmed through, take the pan off the heat.

Remove the fish to a plate. To make sure they are cooked, pull a bit of the meat away from the bone. If it comes away easily, you're in business.

Serve the fish simply with some salsa spooned over the top.

PS If you've got any leftovers, what I like to do is pull the fish away from the bone and flake it into a bowl. Toss with the leftover salsa, add some extra torn parsley leaves or peppery rocket, and serve with some nice bread.