The sweetest story: New Zealand's special honey supply

We love sweet-talking about honey – the golden nectar created by busy bees, which is delicately flavoured by the plants they visit. But not all honey is created equal. There is one particular type that has some beautiful benefits: Mānuka honey.

Mānuka refers to the tree that the nectar is collected from, which is indigenous to New Zealand. Unlike other honeys, Mānuka has antimicrobial properties, which are said to have antiviral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits.

Yes, this honey is produced elsewhere – in Europe and Australia – but it isn’t thought to be as good as New Zealand’s, due to their stringent certification standards, extensive research, and the unique properties of the Mānuka tree that’s native to the country.

And no one would agree more than Jim McMillan, the visionary founder of The True Honey Company – a brand that’s committed to producing some of the highest-quality Mānuka in the world. His products range in price from around £100 to over £1,000, from good honey to hospital-grade medicine. And it’s all because of his deep respect for nature and his dedication to ensuring the purity of Mānuka honey and the sustainable practices employed in every step of the process. This is truly premium honey!

We chatted to Jim to find out more…

Jim, tell us about True Honey – how did it come about, and what was your inspiration behind it?

Before starting the company, I was a helicopter pilot working in the agricultural sector. I spent a lot of time flying the length and breadth of New Zealand and became aware of the pristine, remote areas where Mānuka plants are grown. I also had good relationships with a lot of the landowners in these areas. That, coupled with the fact that I’ve always had a strong interest and passion for the role in which natural products play in our health and wellbeing, is what led me to start True Honey. Essentially I hired one beekeeper, set up 200 beehives, and started from there. That was over 10 years ago now, when the industry was only semi-developed.

And how big is True Honey now?

At one point we had around 12,000 to 13,000 hives. At the moment, it’s dialled back a little bit and varies season to season, but yes, significantly more than the original beehives.

What exactly makes Mānuka honey special?

Mānuka honey is made from nectar from the Mānuka tree, a native shrub to New Zealand that blooms just once a year. It’s considered the ‘nurse plant’ of New Zealand’s native forests. It’s played a crucial role in the ecosystem, especially after wildfires or soil erosion. When the land is disturbed, the Mānuka is often the first plant to regrow. As it flourishes, it helps restore the soil, creating a more hospitable environment for other plants to thrive and for the forest to eventually recover.

While all natural honey offers health benefits, Mānuka is the only one to have non-peroxide antibacterial properties. Dr Peter Molan, who pioneered the research into the distinct qualities of Mānuka honey, found it was 30 to 50 times more effective at combating bacteria than other types of honey. Further investigation revealed that Mānuka honey contains up to 100 times higher levels of methylglyoxal, a compound responsible for its powerful health benefits.

Can you walk us through the process of harvesting Mānuka honey?

Mānuka honey season kicks off when flowering starts, which depends on the region. The further north we go, the earlier the flowering begins, and similarly, the more coastal or higher in altitude the location, the sooner the flowering starts. This allows us to harvest more than one crop from particular hives.

Our hives are flown by helicopter to carefully chosen, sheltered sites that are protected from the elements. These sites are located right in the heart of the Mānuka trees, to limit other nectar sources, and so ensuring the purity of the honey. The bees stay there for about 4-6 weeks, during the flowering period. Then once the season is over, the process is reversed. The hives are transported back home, and we remove the bees from the honey boxes using an escape board that allows the bees to leave but prevents them from returning. The honey-filled boxes are then harvested, placed on pallets, and delivered to our honey facility for processing. There are many steps in the process, but we do it in a non-intrusive way for the bees.

What makes True Honey products unique from other honey brands?

When we founded True Honey, there was a lot of negative publicity around honey authenticity, particularly concerns about fake honey products. So I was determined to build a brand rooted in trust and transparency, from the hive to the jar. Consumers want to be absolutely confident in the authenticity and purity of the honey, so we gave them that – as well as how we work with the landowners who provide the resource. We own our beekeepers and beehives, and even use helicopters to reach our remote sites. This gives us full control over the entire production process.

Our highest-grade product, ‘Reharvest’, contains 1,500mg of MGO per kg, a concentration that is exceptionally high. For several years, we've been recognized as producing the highest-grade Mānuka honey in New Zealand. Because it’s made in very limited quantities and is incredibly difficult to produce, it’s considered a premium product.

What do you hear people using Mānuka honey for?

Mānuka honey is a powerful antibacterial, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory agent, which is commonly used to ease symptoms of colds and flu, as well as to provide a natural energy boost. It’s also widely known for its benefits to digestive and gut health, soothing stomachs and helping to manage H. pylori infections. It’s been shown to be effective in promoting wound and burn healing, being applied topically. Some people even use it as a face mask to take advantage of its skin-healing properties. Over the years, I've heard countless stories of people using Mānuka honey for a wide variety of purposes, and the benefits they’ve experienced are remarkable – we’d be here for hours if I listed them all!

What do people use the high-grade pots for?

The primary customers for ‘Reharvest’ tend to be those dealing with serious health conditions, who are seeking the most potent form of honey for therapeutic purposes. It’s also popular among individuals who can afford to prioritise top-quality health products. ‘Reharvest’ is produced in extremely limited quantities because it’s so difficult to make – sometimes we don’t produce any at all in a given year. The high cost is a direct result of the complexity and the resources involved in its production.

Is there such a thing as honey collectors?

Yes, there are definitely honey connoisseurs out there. They generally come from countries with a long, deep-rooted history of honey appreciation. Many people are very particular about the quality of honey they consume, and they understand the value of premium Mānuka honey.

It must be so special working with bees and creating something from nature. What makes that process so special for you?

I feel very fortunate and privileged to work in nature, especially in such beautiful, remote parts of our country. I love that I can make something from nature that’s both food and medicine. Probably the greatest satisfaction comes from hearing positive reports over the years from people who benefit from consuming our honey. And I love working with bees. They’re certainly fascinating creatures, and it’s amazing to see how they work. Every bee has its own job within the hive and it's so organised and impressive. I feel privileged to work with bees and make something out of nature.

What are your personal favourite ways of using Mānuka?

I like honey anyway, and I’m not just saying that because I have a Mānuka honey company – I truly love honey. I especially like the stronger flavours that come when you get up to the higher grades, as the concentration of the methylglyoxal increases. It is a more earthy, burnt caramel flavour, and I like that I can just feel that goodness coming out of it.

Does cooking the honey reduce its properties at all?

We’ve done trials before with boiling water and we recommend that using 60°C is ideal. My favourite way to consume honey is first thing in the morning; I have a glass of warm water with a squeeze of lemon and a little mānuka honey. But I’ll eat it any which way – I’m not fussy!

Find more information about True Honey on their website, plus our favourite recipes that include honey!