“The perfect ramen noodle should be springy and elastic, and allow the rich, salty broth to cling to it. Although they’re quite hands-on to make, once you get in the noodle-making zone, it’s surprisingly therapeutic to knock out a few portions. Toasting the rye flour just wakes up all the flavours and takes the ramen to the next level, while kansui powder is what makes them springy and elastic. ”
Toast the rye flour in a large dry pan over a medium heat for 4 minutes, but don’t let it colour, then combine with the strong white flour and plain flour in the bowl of a freestanding mixer.
Dissolve the kansui powder and sea salt in 420ml of cold water.
Gradually add the water to the flours, then beat in a freestanding mixer fitted with the dough hook for 10 minutes, or until it starts to come together into a grainy dough (you’re aiming for a dough that doesn’t feel sticky).
Wrap the dough in clingfilm and allow to rest for 1 hour in the fridge.
When you’re ready to start rolling, cut off a manageable piece of dough. Cover the rest with a clean damp tea towel while you work, to stop it drying out. Using a pasta machine, roll the piece of dough through the widest setting. Fold the edges of the dough back into the middle and roll through again, then work down the settings until your sheets are 1-2mm thick, then switch attachments and cut into 1-2mm-thick noodles, tossing them in cornflour, as you go. Repeat with the remaining dough.
When you’re ready to cook the noodles, place in a pan of boiling water for 45 seconds, then remove, shaking off any excess water.
If you can’t get hold of kansui powder, simply scatter a thin layer of baking soda out on a lined baking tray, and bake for 1 hour at 120ºC/250ºF/gas ½. Leave to cool, then store in an airtight container until needed.