“Pairing duck with peas is a great tradition. There is even a play called Duck with Peas, and a copy of the script published with beautiful engravings by Thomas Crawshall. But blessed is the kitchen that has leftover duck to make this venerable hash, the supreme leftovers dish. Quantities are really at the cook’s discretion. Any shortfall in meat can be made up with eggs, bacon or vegetables, in this instance peas, perhaps adding a few pea shoots to the mix. A great pan of hash taken to the table generally elicits a happy hum. This can be used for leftover roast meats in general. Trenchermen might need 2 eggs each. ”
Buying a few duck legs to roast with this dish in mind is a good ploy. Heat the oven to 180°C. Lightly oil an ovenproof pan, season the duck skin with sea salt and lay skin side down in the pan. Place in the oven and turn the heat to 150°C. Roast gently for 45 minutes, then check that it’s ready by inserting a sharp knife. If there is no resistance, the leg is done, but leave for longer if required and let rest before they are served.
Heat a large pan over a moderate heat. Pour on a film of the oil to just cover the base of the pan. Add the onions and bacon and fry, stirring regularly, until lightly coloured and translucent. Add the potato and fry gently for a few minutes, then add the duck, cabbage and peas. Fry all together, lifting up and turning until the hash begins to colour, having a care to let the hash cook long enough on the heat, 10–12 minutes, until a light colour and crust forms, before turning. Warm a frying pan and fry the eggs separately in a vegetable or olive oil. Serve together on a big dish, with the eggs sitting on top, and strew with chopped parsley.