“Chargrilled Welsh lamb, hugged in a homemade flatbread, topped with super-fresh sunshine salsa, humble chips and a dollop of yoghurt to finish the story – what could be better! Cook the lamb until it’s gnarly and almost burnt-looking, but still blushing inside – it’s the contrast that’s the thing of beauty. Fantastic! ”
Score a criss-cross pattern into any fat on the lamb shoulder, then cut into 2cm-thick slices.
Peel the garlic and finely grate over the lamb with the zest of 1 lemon. Squeeze over the juice from the zested lemon, sprinkle over the oregano and season with a big pinch of sea salt and black pepper. Rub all over the meat, then cover and place in the fridge for 30 minutes to marinate.
For the chips, scrub the potatoes and slice into 1.5cm-thick chips, then parboil in a pan of boiling salted water for 6 to 8 minutes. Drain in a colander and leave to steam dry for 2 minutes, then give the colander a few light shakes to chuff up the edges.
Divide the chips between two baking trays, then season from a height with salt, pepper and the dried oregano. Drizzle each tray with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and toss to coat, then spread out into single layers. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes or until golden and crisp, turning halfway.
For the flatbreads, mix the flour, yoghurt and a pinch of salt together until you have a dough. Tip out onto a clean flour-dusted surface, knead for 1 minute to bring it all together, then roll into 8 balls. Cover with a damp cloth.
Thread the lamb onto a long, sturdy metal skewer to make one epic kebab (or split between two, if you prefer).
Preheat a large griddle or barbecue to high, then cook the lamb for 15 minutes, or until dark and gnarly all over, turning regularly. When the time is up, transfer to a large baking tray and roast in the oven for 5 minutes, or until just cooked through with a slight blush. Alternatively, cook the kebab under the grill: heat a roasting tray under the grill until screaming hot, then add the lamb and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until gnarly all over, turning regularly.
For the salad, peel and coarsely grate the red onion with the tomato, cucumber and cabbage, discarding any skin or tougher bits. Drizzle over the vinegar and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil, season to taste, then toss together.
Roll the flatbreads out on a clean flour-dusted surface into ½cm-thick rounds. Reduce the heat under the griddle to medium and cook the flatbreads for 1 minute each side, or until charred – you’ll need to work in batches.
To serve, shave the meat off the kebab (see tip), drizzling over any resting juices. Place the feta onto a plate and drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil, and put the yoghurt into a bowl and sprinkle over the paprika. Cut the remaining lemons into wedges.
Serve the flatbreads, lamb, sunshine salad and chips in the middle of the table with the yoghurt, feta and the lemon wedges – and let your guests get stuck in!