This is Sienna Miller’s favourite dish so this is my version for her. Pici pasta is basically fat, hand-rolled spaghetti from Tuscany, which makes it ideal for beginners, as it can be as irregular and rustic as you like. Served with delicious, rich duck ragù and homemade duck skin pangritata sprinkled on top, this is as naughty as it gets.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/gas 4. Wash the duck, both inside and out, then pat dry with kitchen paper and rub all over with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place in a snug-fitting roasting tray and pop in the oven for around 2 hours, or until golden, crisp and cooked through.
Once cooked, remove the duck to a board and set the tray aside for later. Finely slice and add the onions, garlic and celery to a large, wide pan over a medium-low heat with a splash of oil. Cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes, or until softened and lightly golden. Meanwhile, remove the duck skin and keep to one side (wear rubber gloves!), then shred the meat off the bones.
Pour most of the Chianti into the pan and allow to reduce for 10 to 15 minutes, then stir in the shredded duck meat. Add the remaining splash of wine to the roasting tray, then scrape the lovely, crispy bits from the bottom and add to the pan along with the chopped tomatoes and two tins’ worth of water. Stir in the raisins, rosemary leaves and bay, then simmer for 1 hour 30 minutes, or until thickened and reduced – if you’ve got any Parmesan rind, throw that in too for an added flavour dimension (just remember to take it out before serving!).
Meanwhile, blitz the pangritata ingredients and reserved duck skin in a food processor until fine. Add to a frying pan over a medium heat with a drizzle of olive oil and fry for 3 to 5 minutes, or until golden and crisp, then tip into a small bowl.
To make the pici pasta, combine the flour, semolina and a good pinch of salt in a large bowl. Make a well in the middle, crack in the egg and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. Gradually add 175ml cold water, mixing continuously until you have a firm dough, then knead for 5 to 10 minutes on a flour-dusted surface until smooth and elastic. Wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for around 30 minutes to rest. Once rested, roll the dough into a rectangle roughly ½cm thick on a flour-dusted surface. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into long, ½cm strips, then with lightly oiled fingers, gently roll each strip into a long tube, starting at the middle and carefully rolling outwards, placing on a semolina-dusted tray as you go.
When the ragù has around 10 minutes to go, bring a large pan of salted water to the boil over a high heat. Add the pici pasta and cook for 6 to 10 minutes, or until al dente. Drain, reserving a cupful of cooking water, then add to the ragù and toss to coat, adding a splash of extra virgin olive oil and a little of the reserved cooking water to loosen, if needed. Divide between bowls, then grate over a little Parmesan, sprinkle the pangritata on top and serve.