Stockholm | City guides for Jamie does...

About Jamie

Stockholm, Sweden

Not only is Stockholm a beautiful city to look at, it is also clean, really organized, funky and stylish. The people are gorgeous and really know how to enjoy life. With its great food markets, fairs, shops, restaurants and waterfront you'll never be short of things to do there.

The city is made up of fourteen main islands, so there are bridges and waterways everywhere, which is why it is often called 'the Venice of the North'. The old town, Gamla Stan, is one of the most beautiful medieval cities around. I spent a morning poking my head into some of its wonderful little shops and bakeries, sitting in the square and drinking hot chocolate with the locals, and I couldn't have been happier.

Where jamie went

Chokladkoppen

Even though I went to Stockholm in the height of summer, I had to try the hot chocolate at this café in the old town because I was told it was the best – I'm happy to say it didn't disappoint. It was so stupidly delicious that I've actually thought about it a few times since then. It's in one of the nicest squares in Gamla Stan too, which is a real bonus because you feel perfectly justified hanging out and people watching when the surroundings are this pretty.

Chokladkoppen
Stortorget 18, Gamla Stan
+46 8 20 31 70

Östermalms Saluhall

I love this place and if you're new to Swedish food then it should absolutely be one of your first stops in Stockholm. It's a permanent indoor food market that's been around for over a century and is a place that really puts a lot of value and importance on good ingredients and responsible sourcing. I went back a few times during my stay because this place has it all: you've got stalls selling incredible fish and seafood, others selling every flavour of pickled herring you could ever imagine (as well as a load you'd never in a million years dream of), you've also got seriously tasty and interesting smoked and cured meats, as well as locally-produced Swedish cheeses. There are also quite a few restaurants and cafes where you can chill out with a plate of delicious food and watch everyone buzz around you. It's a brilliant way of diving into the food culture and seeing, smelling, and tasting what it's really all about.

Melanders Fisk

Takeaway smoked- and pickled- fish shop Melanders Fisk (+46 (0) 8 662 4579).

Willy Ohlsson EFTR

Willy Ohlsson EFTR (+46 (0) 8 662 5557) These guys do amazing meats, including a waxed tallow beef that I'd never tried before.

Östermalmstorg, 114 39 Stockholm www.saluhallen.com

Riddarbageriet bakery

One thing I was slightly unprepared for was how mind-blowingly good Swedish breads were going to be. There were soft knotty breads that had been intelligently and bravely baked with spices, rustic breads and brioches, and of course the traditional crisp breads that Swedes are known for. I went for a baking session with Johan, who owns Ridderbageriet. I left so impressed by his skills, and his food. If you're in the neighbourhood I strongly suggest you stop by and pick up a few loaves.

Riddargatan 15 - 11457 STOCKHOLM
+46 8 660 3375

Rosendals Trädgard

Rosendals is a really beautiful, big garden on Djurgården, an island just outside of the city centre. There are museums, galleries, and even a zoo on the island, but I headed straight to Rosendals. Because it's geared towards introducing the public to a biodynamic way of growing, the gardens are open to the public and free to enter. All the plants in it: roses, fruit trees, herbs, and vegetables are grown according to biodynamic principles. There's a lovely cafe and shop there so you can go and order, or buy, food harvested from the gardens. It's about 15 to 20 minutes in a cab from the centre of Stockholm, or you can take the tram. Either way, it is gorgeous so I'd definitely recommend making the effort to go and have a look around.

www.rosendalstradgard.se
Stiftelsen Rosendals Trädgard
Rosendalsterrassen 12
115 21 Stockhom

F12

Danyel Couet is a clever chef and a lovely guy. His restaurant, F12, is really elegant and the buzzy bar attached to it is where a lot of Stockholm's "beautiful people" hang out. He serves cutting-edge Swedish food that takes the principles of clean, elegant traditional cooking a few steps further and up another notch. I dropped by there one afternoon to work with him in the kitchen and we had a great time. If you're in the mood for a posh dinner and exciting food, go and see him (just don't forget to book first!).

Fredsgatan 12
111 52 Stockholm
+46 (0) 8 24 80 52
www.f12.se

Scandic Anglais Stockholm

My crew and I stayed here during our time in Stockholm and really enjoyed it. I've been working with the guys at Scandic a lot lately and really respect their attitude towards business, and food. This hotel is right across the street from Humlegården, which was a Royal Garden way back in the day but is now a public park. It's bang in the city centre so we were only 5 or 10 minutes walk from really great stores, bars, bakeries, and restaurants.

Scandic Anglais
Humlegardsgaten 23
102 44 Stockholm
Sweden

Phone: +46 (0)8 517 340 00
Fax: +46 (0)8 517 340 11
E-mail: anglais@scandichotels.com
Reservation & Customer service: +46 8 517 517 20
www.scandichotels.com

Jamie Magazine city guide

Eat & drink

PA & Co Riddargatan 8; 0046 8 611 0845. Unpretentious bistro and bar attracts a hip crowd.
Prinsen Master Samuelsgatan 4; 0046 8 611 1331. Beautiful restaurant renowned for its grills and seafood.
Den Gyldene Freden Osterlänggatan 51; 0046 8 24 97 60. Historic Gamla Stan restaurant where the Swedish Academy still meet once a week to discuss Nobel prize winners in literature.
Le Rouge Brunnsgränd 2-4; 0046 8 505 244 30. Swedish produce, French inspiration from Danyel Couet, one of the stars of Stockholm's fine-dining scene.
Chokladkoppen Stortorget 18; 0046 8 20 31 70. There's steaming hot chocolate and good people-watching to be enjoyed at this lively café.
Tranan Karlbersvagen 14; 0046 8 527 281 00. This formidable beer joint has served fried herrings and mash to regulars since 1929.
Gondolen Stadsgården 6; 0046 8 641 7090. Take the elevator for spectacular views over the city at this classic bar.
Lisa Elmqvist Ostermalm Saluhall; 0046 8 553 404 00. No need to book for toast skagen, grilled fish and pickled herrings at this Saluhall Market favourite.
Riche Birger Jarlsgatan 4; 0046 8 545 035 60. Fashionable and crowded bar.
Pelikan Blekingegatan 40; 0046 8 556 090 92. Old beer hall with art deco murals and classic fare like potato pancakes or pickled pork and turnips.
NK Nordiska Kompaniet Hamngatan 18-20; 0046-8 762 8000. Venerable old department store with brilliant basement food hall – the champagne bar wasn't bad either.

Shop

Modernity Sibyllegatan 6; 0046 8 20 80 25. Marvellous vintage store.
Svensk Hemslöjd Sveavagen 44; 0046 8 23 21 15. Handicrafts, colourful fabrics and linens.
Party Store Sveavagen 44; 0046 8 411 2425. Paper ephemera for all those endless Swedish parties.
Svenskt Tenn Strandvägen 5; 0046 8 670 1600. Wonderful design store, going strong since 1924.
10 Swedish Designers Götgatan 25; 0046 8 643 2504. Textile collective renowned for bold fabrics.
Ikea Modulvägen 1, Kungens Kurva; 0046 204 390 50. Need we say more?

Stay

Grand Hotel S Blasieholmshamnen 8; 0046 8 679 3500. Aristocratic hotel with waterfront views.
Nordic Light Hotel Vasaplan 7; 0046 8 505 630 00. Stylish, all-white rooms at this hip hotel.
Rival Hotel Mariatorget 3; 0046 8 545 789 00. Abba's Benny's popular hotel also has a worthy café and bakery.
Hotel Stureplan Birger Jarsgatan 24; 0046 8 440 6600. New hotel with rooms in 18th-century Gustavian as well as more modern styles.

Visit

Moderna Museet Skeppsholmen; 0046 8 5195 52 00. Installations, photography and paintings.
Vasamuseet Galarvarvsvagen 14; 0046 8 519 5480. Restoration of an Imperial Swedish warship that sank in 1628.
National Museum S Blasieholmshamnen; 0046 8 5195 44 10. Modern design and 19th-century painting.
Skansen Djurgarden; 0046 8 442 8000. Open-air museum that's an insight into the Swedish love of outdoors.