What Jamie did

Rialto food market

The pescheria (fish market) is undoubtedly one of Venice's most famous food destinations and I bought loads of stuff there during my stay. There has been a food market here since 1097 and I don't imagine all that much has changed: there are still stallholders, still plenty of fish to sell and lots of loyal customers from the local area. Like most markets, the best time to go is first thing in the morning. I had a coffee and watched everyone unloading their boats and getting ready for the day. The erberia (vegetable market) is right next door and also full of wonderful things. The area around the Rialto is full of incredible little shops and delis selling wine, cheese and all sorts of meat, so you've got to wander around and be adventurous.

Trattoria Al Gatto Nero

This restaurant on the island of Burano is now on my list of all-time favourite restaurants. It's a short, but really scenic boat ride away from Venice and as you can see, it's one of the most picture-perfect places you could imagine. I spent a few educational and enjoyable hours cooking with the owner, and head chef, Signor Ruggero. He is known as 'the Risotto King' for good reason, but his other dishes are equally first class and the staff – which includes several of his family members, including his lovely wife – are an absolute pleasure.

Trattoria Al Gatto Nero
http://www.gattonero.com/it
Fondamenta della Giudecca
30142 Venezia, Italy
041 73 01 20

Libreria "Acqua Alta"

Okay, this entry has nothing to do with food, but I had to include it because my mates went here and said it was one of the quirkiest, most beautiful bookshops they'd ever seen. It's heaving from floor to ceiling with every sort of book you could imagine in some sort of 'organised chaos' system but apparently the owner, Luigi Frizzo, is lovely and speaks great English. On top of all the novels and biographies, he's also got heaps of maps and travel guides, especially of Venice, so as long as you remember to take this address with you, you can pick up a city guide there!

Acqua Alta bookshop
Calle Longa Santa Maria Formosa (Corte Senza Nome), 5176 - Castello
30122 Venezia
Phone: +39 041 296 08 41

Alla Mascareta

Jamie Magazine's city guide

Venetian addresses are confusing. The official one consists of the district and building number. We've also included the street or square.

Eat

All'Arco San Polo 436 (Calle dell'Occhialer); +39 41 520 5666. One-room osteria near the Rialto. Stand at the little bar and order an ombra and panini filled with mortadella or lardo (pork fat) and radicchio.
Anice Stellato Cannaregio 3272 (Fondamenta della Sensa); +39 41 720744. Typical local specialities sit alongside those with aromatic spices.
Antica Adelaide Cannaregio 3728 (Calle Larga Priuli); +39 41 523 2629. Cocktails and hearty Venetian fare in this art nouveau establishment.
Antiche Carampane San Polo 1911 (Calle de la Carampane); +39 41 524 0165. Trattoria with fabulous fish.
Boccadoro Cannaregio 5405a (Campiello Widmann); +39 41 521 1021. Excellent food in a pretty, tranquil setting.
Ca' d'Oro (Alla Vedova) Cannaregio 3912 (Ramo Ca' d'Oro); +39 41 528 5324. Textbook regional classics at one of the oldest trattorias in the city.
Cantinone 'gli Schiavi' Dorsoduro 992 (Ponte San Trovaso); +39 41 523 0034. With its walls almost completely covered in wine bottles, this bacari offers a great selection of wines and cichèti, such as baccalà mantecato.
Corte Sconta Castello 3886 (Calle del Pestrin); +39 41 522 7024. Cavernous seafood restaurant offering well-prepared versions of Venetian classics.
Al Covo Castello 3968 (Campiello della Pescaria); +39 41 522 3812, ristorantealcovo.com. Great seafood in elegant surroundings. Da Fiore San Polo 2022a (Calle del Scaleter); +39 41 721 308, dafiore.net. Former bacaro that has become the city's most exclusive restaurant.
Al Fontego dei Pescaori Cannaregio 3726 (Calle Priuli); +39 41 520 0538, alfontego.com. Seafood from the owner's stall, in elegant surroundings.
Alla Frasca Cannaregio 5176 (Campiello della Carità); +39 41 528 5433. Pleasant, no-frills trattoria on a quiet residential square. Alla Madonna San Polo 594 (Calle della Madonna); +39 41 522 3824, ristoranteallamadonna.com. Big, bustling restaurant near the Rialto. Popular with families at lunchtime.
Dalla Marisa Cannaregio 652b (Fondamenta San Giobbe); +39 41 720 211. Great food and service off the tourist trail.
Al Prosecco Santa Croce 1503 (Campo San Giacomo dall'Orio);
+39 41 524 0222, alprosecco.com. Tranquil spot to savour good wine with a crostini cichèti.
Alle Testiere Castello 5801 (Calle del Mondo Novo); +39 41 522 7220. Tiny trattoria serving dishes full of the flavours of Venice's former spice trade.
Al Vecio Fritoin Santa Croce 2262 (Calle della Regina); +39 41 522 2881. Good little spot serving enticing dishes such as gnocchetti with rocket pesto, almonds and smoked ricotta.
Vini da Gigio Cannaregio 3628a (Fondamenta San Felice); +39 41 528 5140, vinidagigio.com. Great Venetian classics and delicious puddings.

Shop

Aliani San Polo 654 (Ruga Rialto); +39 41 522 4913. The best deli in town. Pick up local cheeses, salume or even horsemeat bresaola.
Drogheria Màscari San Polo 381 (Ruga del Spezieri); +39 41 522 9762. Piles of spice in the window announce the only spice shop left on a street named for the many that used to be here.
Libreria Acqua Alta Castello 5176 (Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa); +39 41 296 0841. Named 'high water' after the floods that regularly submerge nearby St Mark's Square, this bookshop boasts a full-sized gondola and a wide selection of Italian and English books.
Lena Castello 5919 (Salizada San Canzian); +39 41 523 7478. A treasure trove of locally made cutlery, including blades designed for cutting tomatoes.
Rosa Salva Four locations include San Marco 951 (Ponte Ferai); +39 41 521 0544. Institution selling top-quality pastries and confectionery since 1869. Ice cream, made on the premises, is deservedly popular.
Le Spighe Castello 1341 (Via Garibaldi); +39 41 523 8173. Fresh pasta made with seasonal ingredients.
VizioVirtù San Polo 2898a (Calle del Campaniel); +39 41 275 0149. Exquisite handmade chocolates.